GOODNESS
Bay Leaf: That green headband around Ceasar's head was bay, and it has a long and glorious culinary history in Mediterranean countries.
Bay can be bitter when fresh, so let it dry for a few days if you pluck it green from the tree. After drying, it keeps nicely in an airtight jar. It gives up its flavor slowly, which is why you add it to the beginning of slow-cooked soups and stews. It has a slightly musty aroma with shades of nutmeg that can overpower a dish, so only use half a leaf for each serving. Don't forget to pull them out before serving!
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Recipe

Creamed Spinach Deluxe

serves
prep time: 10
cook time: 11

ingredients

  • 1/4 cup water
  • 4 6 ounce bags baby spinach leaves
  •  ,
  • 1/3 cup chopped onion
  • 1 bay leaf
  • 1/2 dried small red chile, such as Japones or de á,rbol
  • 1/4 teaspoon black peppercorns
  • 1/4 cup all purpose flour
  • 1/4 teaspoon salt
  • 1 1/4 cups whole milk
  •  ,
  • 1/2 cup whipping cream

directions

Bring 1/4 cup water to boil in large pot. Add half of spinach to pot, toss until wilted but still bright green, about 3 minutes. Add remaining spinach and toss until just wilted. Transfer spinach to strainer set over large bowl. Press on spinach to release all liquid. Transfer spinach to work surface, coarsely chop. (Can be prepared 1 day ahead. Cover and refrigerate.)

Melt butter in heavy medium saucepan over medium heat. Add onion, bay leaf, dried chile, and peppercorns, sauté, until onion is soft but not brown, about 3 minutes. Whisk in flour and salt. Cook until mixture is pale gold and has nutty aroma, whisking constantly, about 3 minutes. Gradually whisk in milk. Boil until thick, stirring constantly, about 2 minutes. Strain bé,chamel sauce into medium bowl.

Heat cream in heavy medium saucepan over medium heat until just simmering. Add bé,chamel, whisk until mixture is smooth and begins to simmer. Add spinach and stir until heated through. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Test-kitchen tip: Be sure to remove as much water as you can from the cooked spinach (otherwise the finished dish may be watery, rather than creamy).