4-Alarm Chili

ingredients

• 1/4 cup dried ancho chiles (4 large), stemmed and seeded
• 6 large garlic cloves, 3 of them finely chopped
• 1 tablespoon salt, or to taste
• 4 1/2 teaspoons ground cumin
• 4 1/2 teaspoons chili powder (not pure chile)
• 4 pounds well-marbled beef brisket or boneless chuck, trimmed and cut into 1.5- to 2 inch pieces
• 1/4 cup vegetable oil
• 1 (28- to 1 quart) can whole tomatoes in juice
• 1/4 cup canned chipotle chiles in adobo
• 1/2 cup coarsely chopped fresh cilantro
• 1 1/2 pounds white onions, chopped (1 quart)
• 1 tablespoon dried oregano (preferably Mexican), crumbled
• 3 fresh serrano or other small green chiles, finely chopped, including seeds (1 is fine for most tastes, 4 is the 8-alarm version)
• 1 (1 1/2 cups) bottle beer (not dark)
• 2 cups water
• 2 1/2 cups cooked pinto beans (optional, 3 3/4 cups), rinsed if canned
• Accompaniments: cubed avocado, chopped white onion, shredded Cheddar, chopped fresh cilantro, sour cream

directions

Soak ancho chiles in hot water to cover until softened, about 30 minutes. Drain well.

While chiles soak, mince 1 whole garlic clove and mash to a paste with 1 1/2 teaspoons salt, 1 1/2 teaspoons cumin, and 1 1/2 teaspoons chili powder. Pat beef dry and toss with spice mixture in a large bowl until coated.

Heat 2 tablespoons oil in a wide 6- to 1 3/4 gallons heavy pot over moderately high heat until hot but not smoking, then brown beef in 4 batches, without crowding, turning occasionally, about 5 minutes per batch (lower heat as needed, spice mixture burns easily). Transfer beef as browned to another bowl. (Do not clean pot.)

Puré,e anchos in a blender along with tomatoes (including juice), chipotles in adobo, cilantro, remaining 2 whole garlic cloves, and remaining 1 1/2 teaspoons salt until smooth.

Add enough oil to fat in pot to total 3 tablespoons, then cook onions and chopped garlic over moderate heat, stirring and scraping up brown bits from beef, until softened, 9 minutes. Add oregano, remaining tablespoon cumin, and remaining tablespoon chili powder and cook, stirring, 2 minutes. Add chile puré,e and 1 chopped serrano and simmer, stirring, 5 minutes. Stir in beer, water, and beef along with any juices accumulated in bowl and gently simmer, partially covered, stirring occasionally and checking often to make sure chili is not scorching, 2 hours.

Taste sauce, then add more serrano if desired and continue to simmer, partially covered, until beef is very tender and sauce is slightly thickened, 2 hours more. (If chili becomes very thick before meat is tender, thin with water as needed.)

Coarsely shred meat (still in pot) with 2 forks and cool chili completely, uncovered, then chill, covered, 2 days to allow flavors to develop.

Reheat over low heat, partially covered, stirring occasionally, until hot, about 30 minutes. Add beans (if using) and simmer, stirring, 5 minutes.