Rice Noodle Soup with Ham and Lettuce

ingredients

• 1 (3 pounds) whole chicken
• 3 quarts cold water
• 1 (3/4 cup) slice boneless ham (0.333 inch thick) such as Smithfield ham or baked Virginia ham
• 1 bunch scallions
• 1 (1 inch) piece ginger, cut into 0.25 inch slices
• 4 garlic cloves, crushed
• 1/2 cup coarsely chopped fresh cilantro stems, roots discarded
• 1 1/2 teaspoons salt
• 3/4 cup dried rice noodles
• 3 cups finely shredded iceberg lettuce (1/4 head)

directions

Cover chicken with 3 quarts water in a 6- to 2 gallons pot.

Cut off 1/3 of ham (trim if necessary) and cut into 0.333 inch dice, then chill. Add remaining 2/3 ham to pot.

Trim scallions, then cut 1 scallion into thin slices and reserve. Cut remaining scallions crosswise into thirds and add to pot along with ginger, garlic, and cilantro stems.

Cook chicken, uncovered, at a bare simmer 3 hours (do not let boil), skimming foam as necessary. (Do not stir, or stock will be cloudy.)

Transfer chicken with tongs to a cutting board, reserving stock. When chicken is cool enough to handle, remove breast meat and shred into 3 inch-long strips, discarding skin. Chill strips and reserve remaining chicken for another use. Pour stock through a fine-mesh sieve into a large bowl, discarding solids and skimming off fat (see cooks' note, below).

Bring 1 1/2 quarts stock with salt to a simmer.

While stock is coming to a simmer, bring about 2 quarts water to a boil in a 1 gallon saucepan. Soak noodles in a bowl of very hot water until softened, about 10 minutes, then drain in a colander. Add noodles to boiling water and cook 1 minute, then add lettuce and cook 30 seconds. Drain in a colander.

Using tongs, divide noodles and lettuce among 6 deep bowls, forming small nests, then top with shredded chicken and diced ham. Ladle 1 cup hot broth into each bowl and sprinkle with sliced scallion.

Cooks' note:

To skim even more fat from stock (for a soup with less than 4 grams fat), cool, uncovered, then chill, covered, until fat solidifies, about 6 hours.